I had always liked sheet 44. Its single main road crosses the map in its northern quarter, through Ballater and Aboyne. South of that are only minor roads that wind up glens and terminate, providing useful access to the vast number of hills that populate the interior. Walking over those hills is not always easy, but I liked the wide-open spaces, the wildlife and the sight of rolling hills stretching off toward the horizon. The summits are not as spectacular as those in the west, but there are wonderful lochs, corries and crags to admire, with a fine selection of paths to enjoy. Long distances are needed to reach some of the hills, but you can get into a steady rhythm and make quick progress when on the higher ground.
I liked the glens as well: Prosen, Clova, Lethnot, Esk, Muick and Tanar, a varied and scenic collection. The place names are even better, a gorgeous collection of evocative and intriguing words, more accessible to English speakers than the appealing but awkward Gaelic names in the west. I had first climbed Ben Tirran the same way as most people, up one of the paths from Glen Clova and down again. It was an enjoyable walk but limited by January daylight hours and predictable terminology. For my return visit 22 years later, Boustie Ley was my primary target, but the other summits were also new to me and I reached Ben Tirran via a fabulous series of names. These were my brief notes from the day:
Ferrowie: Very good path (Capel Mounth) from Glen Clova.
Lair of Aldararie: Dry underfoot, much better going than expected.
Lair of Whitestone: Great views but strong and cold north wind all day.
Boustie Ley: Great walking and views but still cold, some rocks to provide shelter from wind.
Benty Roads: Lots of mountain hares around to add interest to the walk.
The Snub: Excellent summit perched on the edge of cliffs with views of Loch Wharral.
Green Hill: Large rock next to cairn on flattish summit area, still cold.
Craigs of Loch Wharral: Did not expect to get this far but terrain great so averaging 4km an hour.
Ben Tirran: An unexpected bonus to climb this summit as terrain so good underfoot. Trig point a little sunken. Left summit at 10pm, down in glen before 11 then 8km along road and back to car by 12:30am.
I surveyed these nine summits and eight cols along the way, saw no-one and enjoyed almost every minute despite the chilly wind. It made me wonder if I preferred this kind of gentle, spacious walk to the more dramatic summits of the west, but there were too many variables to draw any conclusion. Only six of the nine qualify as high hills, but there are dozens more summits over 600m in the Tirran-wirren area and more splendid names such as Manywee, Monawee and Knockie Branar.
To get full benefit from the richness of historical and topographical terminology entails looking at the whole of sheet 44, not just the hill names. Perhaps no individual names are quite as good as Duff Defiance (Strathdon), Rig of the Jarkness (Galloway) or Taing of Noustigarth (Unst), but the overall collection is difficult to surpass on any one map, apart from the Nordic otherworldliness of sheet 1.
The names that follow are a selection of some of my favourites from sheet 44. These names look good on the map but they really come to life when spoken aloud, ideally while walking over the lonely hills of Tirran-wirren. There will be no-one listening, so they can be spoken or sung as loud as you like, but be aware that you may disturb the birds and the hares.
Auldmad, Auld Darkney, Tom Titlach, The Call
The Crannel, The Witter, Elf Hillock, The Goal
Knachly, Murley, Tampie, Trench
Finlet, Garlet, Quaichly, Sned
Clash of Wirren, Clinking Cauldron, Potty Leadnar, Boggiefern
Burn of Mooran, Gallow Hillock, Baudnacauner, Bachnagairn
Kilbo, Tullo, Shanno, Balnamoon
Glittering, Gathering, Formal, Broom
Burn of Cammie, Burn of Cattie, Adekimore, Burn of Cat
Burn of Branny, Burn of Glansie, Adedazzle, Cul nan Gad
Gwaves, Thieves, Skellies, Inks
Ordies, Bassies, Slidderies, Whims
Drumwhallo, Drumfollow, Inchgrundle, Mellon Doll
Bettywharran, Bodnasparet, Drum Fungle, Clachan Yell